Smart TV Won't Connect to Wi-Fi

Steps to fix it

1. Restart the router and the TVUnplug the router for 30 seconds, and power the TV fully off and back on. A stuck connection lease on either device is the single most common cause.
2. Connect to the 2.4GHz network, not 5GHzMost routers broadcast both bands, sometimes under one combined network name and sometimes as two separate ones. If your router's app or label shows two networks — one often ending in "-5G" — pick the plain one (2.4GHz) first, since it reaches farther and many TVs hold it more reliably, even though 5GHz is faster up close. If you only see one combined network name and want to split it: log into your router's admin page (usually by typing 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1 into a browser, or via the router's app), go to the Wireless or Wi-Fi settings section, and look for a toggle called "Smart Connect" or "Band Steering." Turning that off usually splits the single network into two separate ones — one for each band — that you can then choose between individually. If you don't have admin login to the router — common with apartment or property-managed Wi-Fi — you likely can't make this change yourself; ask your property manager whether they're able to split it on their end, or connect your own router downstream (in router or access-point mode) to create a network you do control.
3. Forget the network on the TV, then rejoin itSamsung: Settings > General > Network > Network Status > select the network > Forget. LG: Settings > All Settings > Network > Wi-Fi Connection > select network > Forget (on some LG models this menu is labeled "Connection" instead of "Network" — look for whichever one is there). Vizio: Menu > Network > select network > Forget This Network. Roku TV: Settings > Network > Set up connection > Wireless, then reconnect. Android TV/Google TV (Sony, TCL, Hisense, Philips, and others that use Google's TV software): Settings > Network & Internet > Wi-Fi > select the network > Forget. Apple TV: Settings > Network > Wi-Fi > select the network > Forget Network (you'll need to be connected to the network to forget it; if the password changed, use Settings > Network > Wi-Fi > Other to join manually with the new password instead). Fire TV Edition: Settings > Network > select the network > press the Menu button on the remote > Forget. Saved networks can hang onto an old password or a corrupted connection profile.
4. Re-enter the password carefullyWi-Fi passwords are case-sensitive. Check the sticker on the router itself rather than typing from memory.
5. Temporarily move the TV closer to the routerIf it connects up close but not in its usual spot, distance or a wall in between is the real problem — worth knowing before you troubleshoot further. If moving it back isn't practical, a mesh system or extender is usually the fix (more on that below).
6. Update the TV's softwareSamsung: Settings > Support > Software Update. LG: Settings > All Settings > General > About This TV > Check for Updates. Vizio: Menu > System > Check for Updates. Roku TV: Settings > System > System Update. Android TV/Google TV: Settings > System > About > System update. Apple TV: Settings > System > Software Updates > Update Software. Fire TV Edition: Settings > My Fire TV (or Device & Software) > About > Check for System Update. Outdated firmware can break the Wi-Fi connection process on some models.
7. Check if it's only disconnecting after sleep, standby, or overnight — a very common, well-documented patternMany TVs cut power to the Wi-Fi radio when they go into a low-power standby state to save energy, then don't reconnect cleanly when turned back on — this shows up as "connects fine during the day, offline in the morning." Samsung/LG/Vizio: look in Settings for something like "Quick Start," "Instant On," or "Eco/Energy Saving," and try turning it off (this keeps more of the TV powered and networked during standby, at the cost of slightly higher power use and a faster startup). Roku TV/Android TV: look for a "Keep Wi-Fi on during standby" or similar option under Network settings and set it to always-on if available. Apple TV: this is a known, documented issue too — go to Settings > General > Sleep After (or Settings > Sleep After, depending on model) and temporarily set it to "Never" to test whether sleep is the cause; Apple TV doesn't have a separate "keep Wi-Fi on during standby" toggle, so the sleep timer itself is the setting to adjust. Fire TV Edition (built into TVs from Toshiba, Insignia, Hisense, and others — not the separate Fire TV Stick): check Settings > Device & Software > Sleep for a similar option, though the exact wording varies by brand and it may not directly control Wi-Fi standby behavior the way it does on the other platforms above. If turning off the eco/quick-start feature (or disabling sleep) stops the overnight drops, that confirms this was the cause.
8. Check how many devices are connected to your routerLog into your router's admin page — usually by typing 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1 into a browser while connected to your Wi-Fi, or through the manufacturer's app (Netgear Nighthawk, TP-Link Tether, eero, etc.). Look for a section called Connected Devices, Attached Devices, or Device List — it shows every phone, tablet, TV, and smart device currently online. Older or budget routers cap the number of simultaneous connections. If your network is full of phones, tablets, and smart devices, the TV may be getting bumped. You generally don't need to delete anything — just seeing the list confirms whether you're near the limit. If you do want to remove a device you no longer use (an old phone, a guest's device), most of these lists have a "Remove," "Block," or trash-can icon next to each entry — clicking it disconnects that device and it'll need to be reconnected manually if it's ever used again.
9. Reset the TV's network settings as a last resortSamsung: Settings > General > Network > Reset Network. LG: Settings > All Settings > General > Reset to Initial Settings (note: this resets more than just network on some LG models). Vizio: Menu > System > Reset & Admin > Reset TV to Factory Defaults. Roku TV: Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Network connection reset — this clears just the Wi-Fi settings without wiping the whole TV like a full factory reset would. Android TV/Google TV: Settings > System > Reset options > Network reset — same idea, clears just the network settings (a separate "Factory data reset" option in the same menu wipes everything and should only be used as an absolute last resort). Apple TV: there's no network-only reset — forgetting the network (a few steps up) accomplishes the same thing. The only full reset is Settings > System > Reset, which erases all settings, accounts, and apps, so treat it as a true last resort rather than a routine step. Fire TV Edition: same situation as Apple TV — there's no dedicated network-only reset, so forgetting the network above is the equivalent step; the only full reset is Settings > My Fire TV > Reset to Factory Defaults, which wipes everything. Most TVs have a network reset option in settings that clears everything Wi-Fi-related without a full factory reset. Exact menu wording can shift slightly between TV model years, so if a label doesn't match exactly, look for the closest equivalent nearby.
10. Consider whether your router or TV is simply outdatedRouters and TVs older than 5-6 years often have weaker Wi-Fi chips that struggle with modern streaming demands, even when every setting is correct. If nothing above works, a newer router is usually the more effective (and cheaper) upgrade than a new TV — but if the TV is the only device that struggles, connects inconsistently even sitting right next to the router, or has never held a stable connection since day one, the TV's own Wi-Fi hardware may simply be faulty, and no setting will fix that.

Common questions